Rumpus 泰国

Hey king, what's your first order of business?
Let the wild rumpus start!!!
Perfect answer!
One we say, off we go
Two we say, off we go
-Karen O and the Kids

Well, this blog is little late—OK, a lot late. Last January, we made like the birds and went south to Thailand. Thailand is amazing! Such a shame I never wrote anything about it—until now. So here goes: The Thailand Blog (only 1 year late). Let’s transport ourselves back in time to January 2013.

Too much reading? Just watch our 4 minute Thailand highlights video.

After landing in Bangkok, we hopped on an overnight bus north to lush and green Chiang Mai. Chiang Mai is in the middle of the jungle, where the adventurous traveler can get personal with an elephant and descend steep mountain terrain by bicycle; and the not-so-adventurous can observe Buddhist monks and their temples, get massages and sip banana smoothies. We skipped the temples altogether, but not the banana smoothies (the best banana smoothie in the world is literally found in Chiang Mai).

Chiang Mai is made for the budget traveler. We leisured at Thailandwow Guesthouse for about $5 USD a night. The guesthouse only has a few private rooms, and I imagine they book up quickly. We stayed two nights in a private room and one night in the dorm. A dorm means you get one bunk bed out of maybe a dozen, and you are at the mercy of your fellow dorm mates’ activities. That is to say, you will wake up to the sounds of late-night partiers fumbling to their beds in the wee hours of the morning. Or worse yet, you have to listen to a half-drunk guy persuade a fellow female sojourner to go outside for a “talk” (he succeeded). Just shut up already! I am trying to sleep. If you aren’t a partier, reserve the private room.

Thailandwow was super comfortable and clean with a helpful staff. Kai served up a tasty fare of western and Thai dishes, while his sister arranged transportation and excursions.  Along with coffee, drinks, meals, travel services, one staff member also gave excellent Thai massages. For 250 Baht (~$7 USD), Peth spent an hour stretching, pulling, and soothing our muscles into submission. Thai massage is sort like doing yoga, without actually doing any work or meditation. Very relaxing and stretchy.

Thai massage will stretch you out like a noodle

Chiang Mai’s blue skies, balmy warmth, and flavorful food contrasted fiercely with Beijing’s smog envelope, dry frigid air, and MSG stir-fried noodles. My inner spirit (the one who loves-loves-loves to be outside running around) awakened from its Beijing-winter-induced slumber with a wicked steep downhill mountain biking excursion through Chiang Mai’s jungle terrain. We also supported eco-tourism with a visit to Elephant Nature Park (ENP). No elephant riding allowed here—only feeding and bathing. ENP rescues abandoned, abused, and sick work elephants, giving them space to roam, heal, and live out the rest of their lives in elephant heaven.

Have an elephant encounter in Chiang Mai

Jungle trekking, banana smoothies, fiery green curry, and chowing on tacos and sangria at The Salsa Grill …we could have stayed forever. But Thailand has so much more. So we jumped on a plane southbound to Thailand’s famous pristine beaches. We landed first in Krabi, and then chartered a small boat to Railay Beach. Railay’s kid-friendly calm beaches and resorts attract families, while its karst cliffs attract mountain climbers.   

Railay Beach is spectacular

Novice climbers (like us) can spend a day scaling Railay’s famous cliffs with Highland Rock Climbing. Highland provides energetic guides, equipment, and very importantly, coffee. Fully caffeinated, secured in our harnesses,  and gingerly edging up to 25 m (80 ft), we tried not to let the awe-inspiring view of the ocean and jungle distract us from our guide’s instructions coming from below: “Right, right, right. Put your foot ‘der! Yah! Yah!”  Nan’s island vibe -- dreadlocks,  generous maniacal laugh, and singing Bob Marley (and a maybe few joints) --  coupled with his expertise and encouragement gave us confidence and thrilled us. I imagined that I looked like Tom Cruise in the opening scene of Mission Impossible 2. I was Ethan Hunt, precariously suspended from a vertical cliff face only supported by my sheer strength. Ha! It’s amazing how rock climbing cables can make you feel invincible.

Rock climbing, a spectacular beach, and authentic Indian food at Utopia International Delights…we could have stayed forever. Well, I would have preferred to stay in a place with a flushing toilet. So provided that we had spent a few extra bucks a night…we could have stayed forever. But Thailand just has so much more. 

After meeting up with some fellow Americans in Krabi, we ferried over to Koh Lanta to chill seaside. That is what you do in Koh Lanta –chill. And chill we did at Fisherman’s Cottage. With the beach just a short walk from a private bungalow, fragrant and fiery curries ready on demand, and mangos, papayas, bananas and coconut available just down the street, we simply did not need to leave our paradise. But Koh Lanta’s coral reefs beckoned us. We took a boat and snorkeling tour to Koh Rok beach and its surrounding coral reefs. The snorkeling was amazing, Koh Rok beach pristinely beautiful, and the tour-provided food delicious. After snorkeling and later touring the coast by scooter, we returned to our beach relaxation.

Chillin' in Koh Lanta

Koh Rok Beach

Green curry, blazing orange sunsets, white sand, aquamarine water clear as glass framed by towering palms, and the days soothing and waning away with ease…we could have stayed in Koh Lanta forever. But we aren’t made of money and like all good things, the dream vacation had to end. So we returned to Beijing’s cold and smog with a suntan and sweet memories.

Now we are planning our next winter getaway to Cambodia. Hopefully it doesn’t take me a year to publish the Cambodia Blog.

Chinese word of the blog: 乐园 lè yuán (literally, happy + land for growing plants)

English translation: paradise

Click HERE to see more pictures of Chiang Mai

Click HERE to see more pictures of Railay

Click HERE to see more pictures of Koh Lanta

Ain't No Rest for the Wicked

There ain't no rest for the wicked
Money don't grow on trees
I got bills to pay

I got mouths to feed
Ain't nothing in this world for free 

-Cage the Elephant 

  

A few weeks ago, an icy wind blew through Beijing. That icy wind did not just freeze Houhai Lake and chase away smog, it also managed to freeze my cold, cold heart.

I had heeded the weather forecast of the imminent frigid wind and packed extra clothes for my long day away from home. Packing a scarf, hat, a set of gloves, along with other normal necessities makes for a cluttered backpack…and a huge hassle to find smalls things—like a wallet.

Before joining the masses entering the subway station, I like to be prepared. Proper preparation requires all zippers zipped, buttons buttoned, clasps clasped, and subway card* in hand. Proper preparation means not being an easy target for pick-pockets while standing elbow to elbow on the subway car. Proper preparation means shedding an extra layer of clothes to avoid overheating during the ride. Proper preparation means efficient navigation through the crowd and through security. Proper preparation means no time wasted.

So you can imagine my dismay when I realized I had forgotten my subway card. Not properly prepared today. Sigh…I have to buy a ticket. In front of the subway entrance where a beggar and his three puppies frequently take post, I dug through my abyssal backpack. Ok, found my scarf. That’s easy—I brought the extra thick one. Ok, hat… gloves…oohh, gum!...notebook—do I really need that today?...lotion—Beijing is so dry…camera—so heavy, but I need it…oh, stupid wallet where are you?…Aha! Finally, found my wallet.

Xialian had been patiently waiting for me as I dug around in my backpack clutter. Now properly prepared with 2 RMB in hand, we bought a ticket, had our bags x-rayed at security, and proceeded to the upstairs platform to await the subway train.

Here, I realized one glove was missing. What use is one glove? I had just spent 25 RMB on these extra-thick woven gloves. Also, the icy wind boded a cold evening at one of our favorite hangouts, Great Leap Brewing. Great Leap is tucked smack in the middle of a confusing maze of alleys, where surely the fierce wind would freeze any unprotected extremity, such as an ungloved hand.

Certain my abandoned glove was just outside the subway entrance, I left Xialian with my full backpack and ran downstairs. After convincing the subway guard that I had bought a ticket and would be right back, I ran outside and scanned the sidewalk and the surrounding areas where I had just stood. No glove. Reluctantly accepting that I lost an article of very necessary clothing, I turned back toward the subway station. Immediately I caught sight of my glove. The glove was snugly on the right hand of the beggar (the one with the puppies).

Aha! My glove. Maybe I will not freeze that night after all. I walked right up to him and said, “Thank you found my glove! That’s my glove! I lost it! Thank you, thank you, thank you!” He protested mildly as I pulled the glove right off his hand. I can’t imagine how ludicrous I must have looked, a foreigner stealing a glove from a beggar.

Obviously, I don’t believe in “finders, keepers,” but my conscience did stab me with mild remorse. Through rain, cold, hot, wind, that dedicated beggar asks for small change. How could I take a glove from a man in such a pitiful state? Yes, Beijing wind has chilled me outside and in.

Wanting to right my woeful wrong, I carried an old pair of gloves with me. Every time I passed through that subway stop area, I looked for him. Two weeks later, I finally caught sight him cuddling his puppies. As I approached him he smiled, probably anticipating a few renminbi thrown his way. Instead, I held the gloves out to him and said, “Do you want these?” He smiled, grabbed them and placed them in the large satchel beside him. He told me something about his puppies that I did not understand. I walked away with my bag two gloves lighter and my conscience clear.

That evening, I relayed my tale of the lost glove to a group of friends. One of my Aussie gal pals gasped in surprise. About 30 minutes before I gave the begging man a set of gloves, she too had given him an unwanted pair. That means the beggar got two sets of gloves within an hour. Sheesh, I guess life on the street hasn’t been too bad.

Chinese Word of the blog: 手套   shǒu tào (literally, hand cover)

English translation: glove / mitten

*Beijing Transportation Card: Getting around Beijing is easy and cheap! Buy the pre-paid subway card to ride the subway, city buses, airport buses, and even buy drinks at some vending machines. Each subway ride is a flat fee of 2 RMB ($0.30 USD) and a bus ride will set you back 0.40 RMB ($0.06 USD).

It's freezing out here, but nobody in China can make an IPA like Great Leap

We couldn't take it and went inside

He is so happy because he has 3 puppies (that never grow) and 2 sets of gloves

The Zephyr Song

Fly away on my zephyr
I feel it more than ever
And in this perfect weather
We’ll find a place together
Fly on my wind

-Red Hot Chili Peppers

Beijing experienced a pleasant autumn this year. Every few days, the breezes would blow through the streets, along the hutongs, polluted canals, and up into the sky chasing the grey smog away. Sometimes the breeze was gentle and soothing. Sometimes the wind was fierce and unpleasant. But Beijingers do not mind a few days of blustery weather. That blustery weather augured at least a few days of crisp air and blue skies.

This time last year, winter had already arrived with an early November snow storm (see Winter Wooskie). The heavy snow choked the glory of the newly turned yellow leaves. The fragile leaves heaved under the weight and fell too early, leaving the trees naked.

But this year, thankfully, winter slept in and let autumn enter and exit with grace.

Chinese idiom of the blog: 五彩斑斓Wǔcǎi bānlán (five colors, multi-colored)

English translation: colorful

Example Sentence:  秋天的树木是五彩斑斓的！Qiūtiān de shùmù shì wǔcǎi bānlán de!

English translation: Autumn trees are colorful!

Blue skies do occur occasionally in Beijing. Saw it with my own eyes!

 

A Fashion do: dress your dog a fall sweater

All these bright leaves! I feel like I found the end of the rainbow. You know, where Skittles are made.

 

Park poem stone

Xialian - a gal for all seasons

 

The Distance

No trophy, no flowers, no flashbulbs, no wine,
He's haunted by something he cannot define.
The sun has gone down and the moon has come up,
And long ago somebody left with the cup.
But he's striving and driving and hugging the turns.
And thinking of someone for whom he still burns
He's going the distance.
He's going for speed.
-Cake

Early on October 20, my girl LK and I along with some 30,000 runners gathered in Tiananmen Square under Chairman Mao’s smug mug. We came decked in bright yellow Adidas jerseys, spandex shorts, and IPods. Some wore neon running shoes. Some were barefoot. Some dressed as storm troopers. We came from China, the States, Europe, Africa and other distant places. We were ready no matter what— come rain, come sun, come smog. Yes, October 20 was race day. It was the Beijing Marathon.

Thanks to the armies of police and strategically placed safety tape, twenty-six miles of Beijing roads were clear of the normal congestion of buses, taxis, automobiles, and honking horns.  The prior day’s breeze had blown Beijing’s notorious smog out of sight and out of mind. The sun warmed the air and gentle breeze boosted the runners’ energy.  It was as though Nike, the Greek goddess of victory and speed, spread her wings and bid heaven and earth into submission.

In our excitement, we scarcely noticed the time or that we were standing in the wrong place. Oops. After a slow start, we hit a steady rhythm. En route, LK and I talked about our families, our teenage years, marriage—you know— girl stuff. Before we knew it, we had gone 13.37 miles in 2 hours, 22 minutes. (Did you think we were going to run 26 miles? We opted for the half-marathon distance and we are proud of it!)

Not enough smog here-- need a smoke

We didn’t break any records. We left that to Tadese Tola of Ethiopia. He blasted through 26.2 miles in two hours, seven minutes and 16 seconds. That’s less than a five minutes per mile pace, folks. For 26.2 miles. Yep, 26.2 miles.

The run course was very organized and amazingly managed. Seeing the eight lanes around Tiananmen Square devoid of traffic was incredible. Plenty of water and Gatorade were provided along the course. No food was provided for the half-marathon course. According to the Beijing Marathon guide, food was available to marathon runners.

This run, however, was very crowded. Near the finish, runners slowed to a turtle pace. LK and I sped up slightly at the end and had to dodge around the slowing runners. I even felt good enough to semi-sprint to the bright yellow banner that read “FINISH.” LK felt more awesome and left me in the dust.  To my chagrin, a wall of people that had stopped 10 to 20 feet in front of the “FINISH” banner to take pictures stopped me in my tracks. Navigating through the crowd like I was in rush-hour subway traffic was a rather anti-climactic end to a triumphant run. Oh well. China just has so many people-- people that that like to stop and take pictures right before finishing a run.

I paid a steep fee of $65 USD to participate. If I were Chinese, I would only pay 80 RMB ($13 USD). Besides wishing the run were cheaper, I regret nothing. I love having a goal for which to sweat and train. After the race, I walk – I mean, run— away with the following:

1. I got a really cool Adidas yellow running shirt and bag
2. I ran under Mao’s portrait.
3. I stayed fit (Some might argue that training in Beijing’s severe pollution actually destroys the lungs because 10 miles of breathing “severe” pollution is like smoking five packs a day, right? Just kidding. I don't know if breathing pollution is like smoking.)
4. Afterward, I ate a cheeseburger and fries with zero regrets.
5. My Chinese friends (who would never dream of running, much less walking at a rapid pace) think I am awesome. One university student said, “You are such a cow!” Believe me, that is a compliment.

Chinese Phrase of the Blog: 太牛了! Tài niú le (literally, so cow)

                English Translation: You are awesome!

 

Quick Facts

Number of Marathon Runners: 15,000

Number of Half-Marathon Runners: 7,000

Number of Mini-Marathon Runners: 8,000

Marathon Participant Fee:

China Citizen: 120 RMB (20 USD)

Foreigners: 80 USD

Half and Mini Marathon Participant Fee:

China Citizen: 80 RMB (13 USD)

Foreigners: 65 USD

Marathon

Male Winner: Tadese Tola, Ethiopia, 2:07:16

Female Winner: Zhang Yingying, China, 2:31:19

Read More:

Beijingmarathon runners caught peeing in public

Public Urination an Issue at Beijing Marathon

I think we need more people in this tunnel

 

Let's GO!

LK, me, and Mao

May the force be with you

When you gotta go, you gotta go

My #1 Fan - I love him!

We totally deserve this! Thank you Home Plate!